Module for charging Li-ion batteries.

Mobile devices

You first need to be familiar with the terminology. Yak such discharge-charge controllers do not sleep

. This is nonsense. There is no liquid sensu keruvati discharge.

The strum discharge should be kept in the spotlight - as much as it is required, as much as possible.

The only thing you need to do when discharging is to monitor the voltage on the battery to prevent overdischarge.

For whom should I stagnate?

When tsyomu okremo controllers

charge

Not only that, but also necessary for the process of charging li-ion batteries.

The smell itself determines the required flow, indicates the moment of completion of the charge, and monitors the temperature.

The charge controller is an invisible part of everything.

Based on my own knowledge, I can say that under the charge/discharge controller we actually understand the circuit for protecting the battery from over-discharge and, for example, overcharging.

In other words, if we talk about the charge/discharge controller, we are talking about the protection of all lithium-ion batteries (PCB or PCM modules).

The whole scheme looks something like this:

The right microcircuit with markings 8205A - and field-effect transistors, assign the role of keys to the circuit.

S-8241 Series

SEIKO has developed specialized microcircuits to protect lithium-ion and lithium-polymer batteries from overdischarge/overcharge.

To protect one bank, integrated circuits of the S-8241 series are used.

Switches for protection against overdischarge and overcharging are required to operate consistently at 2.3V and 4.35V.

The flow control switches on when the voltage drops on FET1-FET2 equal to 200 mV.

AAT8660 Series

LV51140T

A similar scheme is used to protect lithium single-bank batteries from protection from overdischarge, overcharging, and transfer of currents to charge and discharge.

Implemented using LV51140T microcircuits.

Threshold voltage: 2.5 and 4.25 Volts.

The other side of the microcircuit is the input of the electric shock detector (limit values: 0.2V when discharging and -0.7V when charging).

Figure 4 is not working.

R5421N Series

Circuit design solutions are similar to the previous ones.

In operating mode, the microcircuit maintains approximately 3 µA, in blocking mode - approximately 0.3 µA (letter C in the designated case) and 1 µA (letter F in the designated case).

Series R5421N contains a number of modifications that vary in the amount of voltage required when recharging.

Details are provided in the table:

SA57608

Another version of the charge/discharge controller, only on the SA57608 microcircuit.

The voltages for which the microcircuit connects the bank to external circuits should be stored under the letter index.

Details of the marvels. at the table:

It is important to understand that the protection module and charge controller are not the same.

So, their functions fluctuate until the end, but to call the insertion into the battery module of the charge controller would be a blessing.

I’ll now explain why there is a difference.

The most important role of any charge controller is to implement the correct charge profile (usually CC/CV - constant flow/constant voltage).

The charge controller is responsible for intersecting the charging streams at a given level, thereby controlling the amount of energy that is “poured” into the battery per hour.


Excess energy is seen in the form of heat, which means that the charge controller in the robot process can become very hot.
Therefore, charge controllers will never be installed in the battery (on the sub-administration board).

The controller is simply part of a proper charging device and nothing more.

In addition, the same charge for the protection system (or the protection module, whatever you want to call it) is not allowed to separate the charge.

The board also controls the voltage on the bank itself and whenever it exits behind the boundary, it opens the output switches, thereby connecting the bank itself to the outside world.

Before speaking, short-circuit protection also operates on the same principle - when there is a short circuit of the voltage on the bank, it sharply sags and requires a deep discharge protection circuit.

There is a difference between the circuits for protecting lithium batteries and vinyl charge controllers due to the similarity of the demand threshold (~4.2V).



And now that’s enough about the current appearance, let’s move on to preparation and testing.


For this purpose, I needed to discharge the battery without delay (my model has a Panasonic 3400mAh, I already wrote about it at first glance).

I ask you not to waste your respect on the electrical tape of the batteries, because...


The battery is discharged in a lighter with an aluminum case.

To put it simply, the “voltage” of the battery could simply be short-circuited by the body itself.


So I just needed to solder 4 darts before paying.

I pressed the ends with NSHVI-shkami red and black color, so as not to get confused about plus and minus).


As you already guessed, the first test will be on the charge.

For this reason, I discharged the battery to zero (by voltage, not by voltage).


Especially for those who have suffered from a heart attack - it is easy to withstand a discharge of up to 2.5 V with a datasheet on these batteries, and here a little more.


Now, we start the process of charging the battery.

The maximum is 1.1A.


Vidraz.
Tobto.

In fact, we explained that after connecting the USB cable, the board continues to use the battery.

However, as soon as you connect the battery, the board is completely disabled and can only be launched via USB (or via the same 2 contacts, separated from the USB-Micro, there will be no difference).


Now let's move on to the discharge test.


Now let's wonder what kind of power I can get from the battery through the fee for additional assistance.


I have touched all 4 vimikachs on the vantage.

Yak bachite, they cut off 2.2A.
I put the multimeter away again and let the battery run out of charge until it runs out.
In this case, I tried not to waste the moment of applying the guard.
And I was spared - the girl asked right at that moment, when I soon looked up and marveled at what was over there.

Reset the voltage - decrease the voltage on the Out+ and Out contacts - showing 0V, then.

The lady asked the truth.
There was only so much voltage left on the battery.

We assume a maximum of 3.3V.


As you can see, these boards have 2 contacts for connecting the battery and one USB output.

So I will parallelize the axis, USB inputs of the FC-96 boards - this will give me the ability to charge my power bank with a stream of as many as 5 amperes (!!!) - 1A per 1 battery.


I will parallelize the USB output of this “glued” set myself.

The skin circuit board of this set calmly displays 1A power without a voltage drop below 5 Volts.

For those who do not understand, this scheme will be on a skin battery.

2) I use 1 more FC-96 board for self-made emergency lighting (otherwise they often turn on the rest of the time).

The idea is this: before I pay FC-96 to the Outs, I will connect the sliding board, thereby increasing the voltage to 12V and creating a type of low voltage. Best of all, this “bed” will be on light-LED lamps, with halogen lamps (and these are mostly heating lamps) ) There is no special need for confusion.

3) I also want to experiment with my Bosch IXO screwdriver, also on a lithium-ion battery (one).

Since the batteries have a large capacity and the type of skin from them must be removed from the air (use 1C for the Lithium Ion), the 4056 microcircuit generator is used and therefore you have the ability to regulate change the value of the resistor.

Below you will find a table where you can select the required charge source.

You can install an adjustment/change resistor and you can easily change the output wire without soldering.

After power is supplied to the charger board, the blue LED starts to light up and the red LED starts to blink rapidly.
Immediately after connecting the charged element, the red light-transmitting diode will be activated - interrupting the charging process.
Once the voltage on the battery reaches approximately 4.2 (+-1.5%) and only the blue LED turns on to indicate that the charge is complete, the bank is ready for further use.
During the charging process, the integrated circuit heats up very quickly: it is best to secure the circuit board to the radiator.


The price shown is for 2 pieces.
I needed to power one device from a 18650 lithium battery that produces 3-4 volts.
To complete this idea, we needed a diagram like:

1 - protect the battery from overdischarge
2 - charge the lithium battery
I found a little hustka on AliExpress that cost everything and was not at all expensive.


I didn’t think twice about buying a lot of two of these boards for $3.88.

Basically, if you buy 10 pieces, you can get it for 1 dollar.


Ale meni 10 pieces are not required.
Two years later the payments were in my hands.


For those who care, the unpacking process and a quick look can be seen here:
Diagram of Vikonan charging on a specialized controller TP4056
Description of who:


From the other legs, a 1.2 kOhm support goes to the “ground” (R3 is marked on the board), by changing the nominal support, you can change the charge rate of the battery. Initially it costs 1.2 kOhm, then the current charge is equal to 1 Ampere. Before this payment, you can connect various other converters. +56 +153

I love everyone who looks at the road. As we look around, as you already melodiously guessed, there is one useful modification of the “folk” charging module TP4056

on strum 3A and small stagnation as self-charging for flight.

If there is a small test and a simple butt made of charging from cheap components, for those who care, we kindly ask for a cat.

  • Well, the axis is the very modification of the “folk” hustka:
  • Cost of payment:
Charging Li-Ion batteries installed in terminal devices.
  • There are some problems - the device has a bunch of parallel cans and 1A is not enough.
  • Well, figure it out yourself, there are two or three jars of 2.6-3Ah each, the storage capacity is about 6-7Ah.
  • The charge of such a battery will take about 7-8 years, and with a fast one – about 3 years.
  • Like a butt - self-propelled power supply, battery-powered screws and mini-screws
  • Fold your own “swiddy” charger for one or two batteries.
  • Today's high-capacity batteries at 3300-3500mAh can easily accept 3-4A, and even two paralleled banks (before charging, it is better to approximately equalize the potentials).
  • The generators themselves allow the charging of ten cans with a 3-4A stream, which is written about in the data sets for these cans.
  • TTX:
Input socket – DC Port 5mm + duplicate connectors;
  • Input voltage – 4.5V-5.5V
  • Charge voltage – 4.2V (Li-Ion batteries);
  • Maximum charging capacity – 3A;

Number of modules TP4056 – 4 (max. power supply 4A);

Indication – discrete bi-color LED (red/green);

Protection against polarity reversal – no;

Dimensions – 65mm*15mm.

Our Wi-Fi pad has 1.6 Kom resistors for the skin controller, 750ma on the shoulder.

Otzhe, the maximum charging capacity is 3A.

It’s better, the hustki is less heated, and 4A is already richer.

On the other hand, if a 4A charging line is required, 4 resistors are changed.

To regulate the gas charging line under the soldering of the tuning/switching resistor, it is possible for everything, but it is not possible to set what you need to set for the skin controller.

At the same time, whoever is comfortable or doesn’t want to sing folk songs themselves is a terrible problem.

Dimensions of hustki:

The hustka is quite small, only 65mm*15mm:

The axis is aligned with the “people’s” board TP4056 for 1A, 18650 battery and holder:

If necessary, you can cut off the front part of the board, then solder in the DC connector and solder it to contacts 5V+ or 5V- or directly to the conductor tracks:

So Dovzhina Khustka will become 1 centimeter shorter.

Previously, I had already reworked the people’s khustka, and this is what came out:

In our case, everything is simply impossible, because the tracks on the other board do not suffer.

It is clear that who needs a DC socket - it is removed, or it is supplied through the darts to the contacts 5V+ or 5V-.

Different microUSB and miniUSB are not suitable here, they will get very hot, since they are not insured for such devices.

Like a butt, I’ll point the butt of my charging device with the verification of inexpensive components.

1) What do we need for this:

Right next to the board itself, look at the TP4056*:

5) You will need the very best, and no restrictions.

This means it’s easy to clean it with a knife and when the veins start to shine and don’t irritate, which means conducting the boundaries (aluminum coatings).

I recommend either a clear acoustic or a butovo type of ball screw.

Life supply unit (BP) at 5V at 5-6A (with reserve).

I vikorized the S-30-5 power supply at 5V/6A*:

You can set the power supply, which often changes, at 12V at 2-3A, which comes complete with other devices and a lower DC-DC converter at 5A (3A stinks steadily).

However, there are a couple of disadvantages here, since the circuit becomes more complex and the charger’s performance improves.

Because there is no obvious power supply, then the computer's power supply is likely to be detected.

The additional demand of 15W is not worse for me, since, of course, he does not push the boundaries of his capabilities.

Since there is obviously a free Molex connector, it is not difficult to get a new adapter.

  • This time we need red (+) and black (-) darts.
  • So, let’s sort out the components.
  • Now it’s timeless to pick:
  • The fragments of the hustka will be stored in another device and I already have good high-voltage chargers, then I don’t need self-charging, so the assembly, it seems, is on the knee (I won’t solder the roses):
  • Take the holder for the battery and attach the plastic at the ends for the battery (bottom groove in the photo):
Then we solder the wires with or without connectors, depending on which option you chose.
  • The three-legged LED is left to its fullest discretion, so as not to shorten its strands, we put insulation on them like any other:
  • We cover the board with a plastic cover in the cable channel or a similar casing and wrap it with all the necessary electrical tape, :-).
  • To go out and finish the milking is handicraft, but the smut is working:
  • Control check, everything works:
  • I did not solder the connectors, but connected them directly to the power supply.

Visnovok: korisna modification