Having bought my first digital SLR 400D kit (350D, 30D, D40X, D40, D50, E-510, E-400, K100D etc.) - why do the pictures come out blurry? This is the diet given to many amateur photographers. Why come out “nice” and how to fix it? How to remove sharp images? You will find evidence on this supply in this article.
Look at the Canon EOS 400D camera. However, this is not true for other models of digital SLRs. Please note, because the image may not be clear enough for some reason.
1. Vovnyanka - turn the display over
There is no tired meaning of the term stirrer. In this context, it is important that the image is blurred during the capture of a static object, using the hand of the camera. The reason for camera instability is usually due to rough pressure on the shutter button or three hands. To avoid thieves when picking it up from your hands, the window is to blame if it is short, lower
1/EFR,
DE EFR – equivalent focal length (equivalent to 35mm lens). For Canon EOS 400D, the crop factor is 1.62, so EFR = f * 1.62 de f - focal length of the lens (as indicated on the front part). For example, for f=55 mm EFR=(55*1.62)=89 mm (maximum focal length lens). In this case, the fall during hand-holding is caused by the windshield being short in 1/89 of a second (for example, 1/125 of a second).
In order to change the visibility, you have to shoot at a larger aperture or increase the ISO. Before speaking, increasing the sensitivity of the matrix (ISO) is not always a bad thing - it’s better to see sharper images, high and a little grainy, lower blurred (Fig. 1).
Canon 300D, f=50 mm, EDF=80 mm, f/8, handheld
ISO 100, 1/25 s, blurry images ISO 400, 1/100 s, sharp images
Small 1. At ISO 100, the highlighter folded 1/25, the Tv mind was smeared. Increasing ISO to 400 allowed the speed of the video to 1/100 s (four times)
And the “thieves” disappear - the frame is sharp
Porada: To control movement and achieve the highest sharpness, use a tripod! With this, the shutter button is better than pressed manually, but you can use the self-timer or remote control(Suitable for static scenes). In addition, to prevent the camera from moving the mirror, you need to turn on the front mirror (the mirror locking function is not available on all cameras).
Note: At the hour of lifting by hand, you need to smoothly press the trigger! Something like how Olympic shooting champions pull the trigger. The finger collapses on the trigger, the camera is liable to become indestructible. In addition, I’ll give you recommendations from J. Wade’s book “Technique of Landscape Photography”: “Stand up, relaxed: your legs are lightly apart, your legs are evenly distributed across your legs, the camera in your eyes and elbows is tightly pressed to your body.” Set the lens to sharpness, adjust your focus And press firmly on the shutter release, concentrating only on your finger.
Additional information from Eugene Glushko (connected with a thief from shooting practice). Sometimes the towel (miss) is due to the hasty lowering of the camera (screw). To avoid this, shooters are recommended to hold the target on the muscle for a few seconds after shooting without changing their minds. Photographers are also advised not to lower the camera suddenly, but to keep their eyes on the cameraman for a little while. If you don’t have the ability to hold up a tripod (or monopod), you can quickly stand on various supports - a parapet, the back of a bench, lean against a tree, sit with your hand on your knee, and lie on the ground. Zagalom, what is allowed is the plot.
2. The loan facility is collapsing - the display is short
If the object is collapsing, a short window is required to capture a sharp photo. If you are looking for a disabled person, be sure to set the window to 1/60 s, but for a Swedish child you may not need to set it to 1/200 s. And in order to “freeze” the speed of the sport, you need 1/500 s or shorter.
Small 2. A short window of 1/1250 s allowed you to “freeze” the water that was flowing:
Canon 300D, f=100 mm, ISO 100, f/4, 1/1250 s
Sometimes, in order to achieve the artistic effect of rosette (the effect of romanism), it is specially necessary to wear a long window (Fig. 3).
Small 3. Dovga vitrimatka vikoristan transfer the effect to the flow of cars:
Canon 300D, f=24 mm, ISO 100, f/13, 2.5 s
Note: The distortion of the object, which quickly collapses, lies in the frame not only because of the windshield, but also because of the type of shutter. Most modern digital SLR cameras have a fixed shutter. It doesn’t matter that it allows even short winding times (for example, for the 400D the minimum winding time is 1/4000 s) when picking up an object that is rapidly collapsing, you are likely to suffer from it. On the right is that the curtains always collapse with the same fluidity, regardless of the windshield. The window shade is indicated by the shade between the ruffles of the first and second curtain. During short exposures (shorter than 1/200 - 1/250 s), the other curtain begins to fall earlier, before the first one reaches the end - exposure is displayed through the gap between both curtains. As a result, the object that is collapsing is forced to move into the frame from the beginning of the exposure to its completion, which can lead to its collapse. Such creations are weakly noticeable and do not play a role in normal photography.
To change such a connection between a curtain shutter and a digital cameras ah, the electronic shutter is stuck, but it’s not okremy device and the principle of adjusting exposure using a digital matrix. The visibility is indicated by the hour between the matrix being reset and the moment the information is read from it. Locking the electronic shutter allows for more short exposures (including shutter synchronization exposures) without the wear and tear of expensive high-speed mechanical shutters. The camera can be used as a camera Nikon D70/D70s/D50; in some combinations, the electronic-mechanical shutter allows you to shoot in the shutter synchronization mode (X-sync) on video frames up to 1/500 s. For comparison: for Canon 400D the X-sync speed is set to 1/200 s, for Canon 30D - 1/250 s, for Canon 1D Mark III - 1/300 s, for Canon 1D - 1/500 s, for Nikon D80 - 1 /200 s, for Nikon D3 - 1/250 s.
3. Incorrect camera settings - change the sharpness parameter (Sharpness)
Change the Sharpness parameter values in your camera settings. It is not necessary to add to the minimum value (Fig. 4)!
Small 4. Checking the Sharpness parameter on Canon 400D:
in the settings for washing, a certain (medium) level of sharpness is already installed
For numbers, you always have to increase the sharpness. In front of the insertion matrix there is an anti-alias filter, which specially blurs images a little (amazing article by Dmitry Rudakov “Sharpness... without crease”). With the minimum value of the Sharpness parameter, the picture will be softer (Fig. 5). Making this setting (zero for the 400D) ensures that the sharpness will move more accurately as the image is processed further.
Sharpness: 0 Sharpness: 3 (for cleaning)
Small 5. Injecting the sharpness parameter (Sharpness) at the hour of capture into JPEG:
Canon 400D, EF-S 18-55, f=18 mm, f/5.6, 1/400 s, ISO 100
Respect! The sharpness setting only affects the JPEG that is visible in the camera (not RAW!). In this case, the “original” RAW converter reads the values of the Sharpness EXIF parameter and uses it as a basic setting (for example, for Canon cameras).
There was more talk about the so-called enhancement of sharpness when introduced (Capture Sharpening). For digital, you need to convert from RAW (when shooting to JPEG, you need to do it from the camera itself). In addition, the sharpness must be increased when Output Sharpening. This involves preparing an image for a friend (for example, for inkjet printer it is necessary to “sherpit” more strongly, less for the minilab), as well as changing the image for publication in the frame (displayed on the screen). Bruce Fraser, an expert in digital processing, sees a third stage - Creative Sharpening. For example, in a facial portrait, to emphasize respect in the eyes, you should pay a little more attention. These other power shifts in sharpness during image processing are unnecessary for the relevant statistics.
Note. The filter in front of the matrix, which slightly blurs the images, is often called an anti-alias or optical low-pass filter. This term is widely used according to its meanings, and, by analogy. The filter itself serves to change color artifacts and moire in mosaic matrices (as opposed to the Bayer pattern) and to plausibly transform a monochrome RAW image in color.
It is important to note that the “anti-alias” filter is different from the chambers of different sampling stages. For example, it is noted that Nikon’s filter blurs images less than Canon’s. The results can often be slightly “increased the sharpness of Nikon” or “Nikon D80 is sharper, lower than Canon 30D”, etc. This does not mean that Canon is less sharp. Just to achieve Nikon's level of sharpness on Canon, you will have to set the Sharpness parameter to a higher value. It seems that Canon has three low-pass filters in front of the matrix.
Some cameras do not have an anti-alias filter, for example, the Leica M8. But you can pay for the price. When looking closely at the image from the Leica M8, some textures, as well as in the blur zone, appear to be somewhat rusty; the photos were taken through a reticle (and not at low ISO, as long as there is minimal noise!). For some low-pass cameras, the filter is optional, for example, the Mamya ZD.
Varto also knows about the trisphere matrix Foveon. In contrast to the mosaic template, the skin pixel is “fair” and fixes all three color warehouses (RGB). Theoretically, such a matrix gives the sharpest image and ensures the most accurate detail at 100% image zoom. To date, this technology has not yet developed and is represented by a single camera, which is produced by SIGMA SD14 (separate version 2640x1760 - 4 megapixels).
4. The depth of field is small
DOF - depth of space that appears sharply. Blurred photographs may be blurred by the shallow depth of sharpness. For example, for a whale lens at the long end of f=55 mm at f/5.6, the depth of field will be close to 7 cm (the distance to the photographic object is close to 1 m). Apparently, objects beyond the boundaries of the IPGR will be expanded.
As a rule, those who take photographs with a digital compact note that there is a great depth of field and all objects in the sharpness zone. The low depth of sharpness is one of the advantages of cameras with a large matrix and therefore depends on the artistic method for adding volume to the photo. Expanding the background allows you to “supermix” the captured object from the background (Fig. 6).
f/4, 1/125 s, ISO 400 f/5.6, 1/200 s, ISO 400
Small 6. Apply a low depth of sharpness to “separate” the subject from the background:
Canon 300D, EF 100/2.8 MACRO USM, exposure correction in RAW converter
It is best to manually adjust the central focusing point: point the center of the camera at the object, focus (press the release halfway), then compose the frame and take the next photo (press the release all the way). However, there is a catch here: rotating the camera during framing can lead to loss of sharpness on the subject (Fig. 7).
focusing on the central point - composing the frame by turning the camera -
object at focus object goes beyond the depth of field
Small 7. Framing by rotating the camera can result in loss of sharpness on the subject
There are a number of ways to get rid of such a treat:
Select the focus point manually (although this is not very manual: turn the wheel quickly);
. do not rotate the camera, but move it parallel to the surface of the photographed object;
. vikorystuvati manual focus (MF);
. Increase the depth of field by closing the aperture (although this will change the background distribution).
The reason for the reduced depth of field may be a miss in autofocus. For example, you were guided by the eyes, and the sounds (back-focus) or nes (front-focus) came out sharp. Which type of camera or lens will need to be adjusted. About those how to change the lens to back focus, div. my article “How to test a lens before purchasing.”
Note. In fact, the autofocus sensor units are much larger, lower than those indicated by the camera. This can be illustrated forgive me butt: we place two lines on the white arch - one thin, the other (div. Fig. 8, a). We expand the camera under the camera to the sheet, the entire lens is perpendicular to the lines. If, when pointing along a thin line of contrast, the line ends up between the mark on the viewer (red frame), and between the sensor area (indicated by a green color), then the camera can focus along this contrast line (Fig. 8, b). This normal robotic autofocus is often regarded as back focus. If the autofocus sensor area loses just one contrast detail, then “false” back focus will not appear (Fig. 8, c). Why is it impossible to carry out a back-focus test by photographing a ruler - the scale must move at any distance from the target.
a) a simple meta for checking autofocus
b) “miss” to autofocus: the sensor moves towards more contrasting details
c) more precisely: there is a thin line here - the most contrasting detail
Small 8. A fragment of a photo that explains the robot’s autofocus: indicated in red
frame on the camera, in green - the actual size of the autofocus sensor
5. Lens change - close the aperture or change the lens
This is a problem if the separate lens is not used to capture a sharp image. The smaller the pixel in the matrix, the more pronounced the “sweetness” of the optics is. For example, the 400D has a photosensor size of 5.7 microns, and the 300D has a photosensor of 7.4 microns (which is 1.7 times larger in area!). Obviously, if you use a “nice” lens (by the same token), the 300D will have a better (clearer) picture than the 400D (Fig. 9).
Canon 300D, f=50 mm, EDF=80 mm, f/8, handheld
400D 300D
Small 9. The whale lens EF-S 18-55 II chalks heavily at 400D and does not allow
using the potential of a 10 megapixel matrix: detail is not in abundance,
below the 6-megapixel 300D, and on the next day it’s worse (the invoice is spent through distribution).
Capture parameters: f=18 mm, f/3.5, 1/1000 s, ISO 100, conversion from RAW using Capture One
Note: During the experiment, it was noted that 400D at the same time produced a darker image, lower than 300D. This may be due to the fact that the actual sensitivity of the matrix in a 300D camera is shown below (for example, 20D and 5D cameras are marked - setting ISO 100 actually confirms the sensitivity of ISO 125).
One of the options to “raise” the lens mileage is to close the aperture by 2-3 stops. And here the aberrations change, and the picture becomes sharper (Fig. 10).
f/3.5 (maximum aperture) f/8
Small 10. Behind the cover of the diaphragm, the distribution changes, especially along the edges, and the photograph
stays sharp: Canon 400D, f=18 mm, ISO 100, RAW conversion using Capture One
Another option is to use a sharper lens. For example, if you use an EF 100 2.8 MACRO USM (one of Canon’s sharpest lenses) on the 400D, the noticeable increase in detail is equal to that of the 300D (Fig. 11).
400D, 1/200 z 300D, 1/250 z
Small 11. The sharp lens of the EF 100 2.8 MACRO USM allows for greater clarity at high altitudes
separate production of 400D matrix. Shooting parameters: f/8, ISO 100, Capture One
A report on testing the lens and assessing the sharpness of the images. in my article "How to test a lens before purchasing. Checking a used lens."
6. Diffraction reduction - too small aperture (hole)
On the surface of the open aperture, the lens is most susceptible to aberration (more severe). So he has to close the diaphragm. I would try to capture the sharpest little thing at f/22. However, who is not to be expected! In the 400D, starting with the f/11 aperture, sharpness begins to fall through diffraction effects - the ideal “dot” blurs into the diffraction spot. The size of this part is similar to the matrix pixel (5.7 µm). There is another important concept: the smaller the pixel of the matrix, the smaller the range of working apertures. For example, for the 400D, the sharpest sharpness of a whale lens in the wide-cut position is the f/5.6 - f/8 aperture.
Small 12. Increasing the sharpness of the diaphragm: on the surface of the open diaphragm the lens becomes shallow
through aberrations, in the range f/5.6 - f/8 shows maximum sharpness, and starting from f/11
diffraction analysis begins
Visnovki
1. The best way to capture a sharp photo is to use the correct lens, aperture and a low level of sharpness.
2. The increase in the number of megapixels of current digital cameras increases the possibilities for optics and the range of working apertures.
All iPhones have a camera, but some people often say that iPhones don’t take photographs at all. There are a lot of reasons why people who want to know a little about their phones can check the evidence of a problem and think about what can be done about it.
Reasons why iPhone doesn't take photos
- The first reason is that the camera is not working. If you can’t take a photo, then perhaps this detail on the phone went wrong. Varto look at everything Possible optionsїї breakdowns.
If you threw the phone, this can cause damage to the camera, so you have to sit close to the edge. Of course, the sapphire crystal is protected, but the soft alloys of the case do not provide adequate protection when dropped on a hard surface. It’s not good for you to give your phone to such vandals.
Also, the reason for the camera not working will be that the contact is bad. It is necessary to check what the camera is doing or replace it otherwise.
- The problem may be on the software level. The conflict between some of the displays prevents the camera from working normally, so you can update your phone and see what the camera is working now.
- Another possible breakdown would be if the camera contacts on the board of your iPhone are damaged. Because of this, we don’t take photographs, because there will be no use for cameras in this situation. Please clean the contacts or reconnect all necessary cables.
- You need to be respectful of the programs you use for photography. However, the stench itself can be a negative effect because the phone stops working with the camera correctly. Launch the original program on your phone and check the ability to take photos.
If you cannot repair the damage, bring your iPhone to our service center. Cost-free diagnostics will show the presence of any other problems and you will select additional original components if you need to replace them. Also, the distributors will provide a guarantee on the term for 30 days, which will be rich to the soul.
St. Petersburg | Yekaterinburg
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As a rule, in order for a person to appear beautifully in a photo, the lens has to pay a lot of attention. Axle butt:
Shake the camera a little more often (like taking a selfie), ask the photographer to pick it up, find a friend who will take your photo, or shoot a photo. In addition, lightly pull the chin down (but not too much) - no one wants to smell what's in your nose.
2. Unmatched focus
Individuals look different when positioned in relation to the focal length of the lens (18 mm, 35 mm, 200 mm, etc.).
A good range for photography that looks natural is between 35 mm and 85 mm. But all individuals are different. That’s why sometimes people think that they look wonderful in the mirror, but in photographs they look scary.
To find the best focal point, ask a friend to take the camera with the zoom and take a bunch of photos with you so that you can immediately frame the images. Then look at them and choose what is most suitable.
Try from the middle to the focal length you find. To find the ideal range, ask the photographer to either step back and zoom in, or move closer and zoom out.
3. The eyes don’t laugh
If you want to laugh at a photograph, show respect that the eyes are as important as the mouth. To “laugh with your eyes,” try to close the bottom part and lower the top part.
Practice in front of a mirror. Marvel at how much more accomplished you look.
4. Incorrect body position
By photographing the head and shoulders at 90 degrees in relation to the camera, you can look a little uninterested. Rotate one shoulder to the side of the lens. Your shoulders sway at about 30 degrees from the camera. Axis, for example, a portrait from a professional photo shoot of Dr. Anthony Romeo:
This pose will help you look straight forward. And also raise your shoulders, throw them up and down. So, slightly press the sewing and paint the look of the upper part of the sheepskin coat. We don’t need stooped shoulders, do we?
5. You laughed for a long time, so you look marvelous
Chantly, you know that it’s difficult to laugh at yourself at the team’s attention during a difficult hour. The more you extend the laugh, as a rule, the more artificial he looks. This happens especially often when taking group portraits. Ask the photographer to use the shutter “3, 2, 1” before taking a photo. Then, just for one or two seconds, you will be able to laugh and laugh.
6. You didn’t show respect for having your photograph taken and you weren’t ready until then.
When you are photographed, give all your respect to the photographic process in order to admire the open mouth and divine eyes in the frame. Keep your eyes out of the camera. Don’t imagine that they are going to kill you at once. Make sure you don't blink. Just a few seconds, so be attentive.
7. You grimaced
Photographer Adam Edmond.
Whenever you show your language, you make accusations, you puff out your cheeks, and you look bad. Don’t give in to the urge to grimace at the camera, as you don’t want to take a portrait that screams laughter and the urge to grab him away. Ask the photographer to take a number of shots, some serious, but not so much the other. Find out which one suits you better.
8. They took only one frame, and you didn’t check it
Don’t hesitate to ask for another shot, as you understand that they took the first one: they blinked, then sighed. Come back and let them show you how you appeared in the photo, and don’t stop taking another frame that you didn’t deserve. Reveal the distortion of the created gar image.
on Android based Poorly takes photos and videos / blurs, darkens, shoots photos and videos poorly. What to do and how to enjoy.
Many koristuvachs are stuck with the problem, if phone chi Android tablets are starting to come into their own. Nothing like this has ever happened that could cause a problem, but he does not act as he is guilty.
For example, the device developed problems with because defects appeared during the photo and video collection. The reason for this may be:
Pershe: Software crash - tobto. the problem lies in the fault software security
2nd: Hardware failure- tobto. the problem lies in the “gap” (then the gadget requires replacement or updating of spare parts)
However, don’t rush to get embarrassed - 90% of people have problems robotic camera smartphone or tablet based on Android is faulty software crash, you will be able to completely correct the self-thrust.
Fixed software error:
Method 1. To finish your forgiveness - come to "adjustment", you know there « backup copy and discount", which one you choose outside skidannya adjustment from previously seen data. Be careful, this method often turns out to be ineffective because it entails deleting all photos, contacts, passwords, music, games, videos and the log of all information that is saved on your smartphone or Tablet e. Therefore, first save everything you need by purchasing the gadget before your computer. Since this method does not help you, and since the problem has not been solved even after this, be amazed Method 2.
Method 2.
Reasons for the most important problems with communication and acceptance of measures phone number tablets based on Android by introducing additional software. Utilities that control all processes in gadgets. Today there are a lot of them, but the less function of replacing the additive, the more, as a rule, it’s more effective. Best controls the functions of the system, adjusts and corrects everything Possible mercy adjustment and synchronization is small and easy to use, cost-free utility for devices based on Android. Engage the program Google Play You can view additional options in the description. Once the program is installed, you will only be unable to launch it. In principle, you don’t need anything else. The program will take control of the functions of the device. (Before speaking, the gadget will recharge by 20% more, and its productivity will also increase significantly, which will indicate the speed of operation of all accessories, games, and the system as a whole. In the middle, after scanning, The system operates at 50% less.)
- Besides this, you should clean the system using a NORMAL antivirus. The best way to cope with these tasks is to Kaspersky antivirus , you can enchant as much as possible. In addition to the “multi-cleaner”, the Kaspersky Lab software is paid, so since you are not able to install such a protection, you can skip this period.
Method 3.
I’ll add a software security change, or what else is it called? "re firmware".This method, as a rule, requires singing beginners and goes to the Service Center for money. To complete this task yourself, you will need to go to the vendor site of your device, download the required firmware and utilities, and then reinstall it on your gadget.
Since not one of the methods brought results, unfortunately, you will have to resort to Service center For repairing your tablet or smartphone a.
A phone or tablet based on Android poorly takes photos and videos / blurs, dims, and captures photos and videos poorly. What to do and how to enjoy.
All of us are stuck with this: looking at the captured frame on the camera’s RK display or in the window of the graphics editor, we discover that something is wrong with the photograph. Either the composition is wrong, or the exposure is incorrect. Otherwise, the image is not sharp enough as desired, and the color rendering is unnatural. Even if it wasn’t there, you won’t be able to clearly point out what’s wrong with the photograph, but you will firmly sing: what’s wrong with it.
We've compiled a list of 55 common reasons why your photos may not look good, as well as our ideas and recommendations for solving these problems. Of course, you don’t suffer from all of them right away, but we feel like you would have been stuck with one of them.
We tried to explore the problems associated with exposure, composition, focusing, lighting and processing of photography.
If it doesn’t matter to you, please fill in the comments with information about those you were particularly concerned about.
The exposure of your photograph is not far off, so...
1. The RC display of the camera is too light/dark
The rear PK display of your DSLR (or compact or any other camera) can give you hidden information about the exposure of the frame, but not in these cases, if it’s too bright or dark. Before shooting, calibrate the brightness level to the highest brightness level. This function is available in the camera menu.
2. You didn’t check the histogram
10. You are vikoristing the wrong mode of borrowing
Since the camera does not lock the selected camera mode, you can easily change it, for example, by taking the camera from your bag. You may think that you are shooting in Aperture Priority mode, but in reality you will manual mode, depending on the adjustment of the diaphragm and the window, the settings you set may be completely unsuitable for shooting.
11. You need to show off your vikorist for a long time
To control your camera's exposure, you must strike a balance between aperture, lens sensitivity, and ISO sensitivity. Having chosen a very long window, you run the risk of removing the blurred image, because of the so-called “thief” (camera cowards) and the hand of the subject of the loan. To change the visibility, open the aperture or increase it.
The composition of your photograph was not very good, so...
1. The background is too lined
This moment is very easy to let go of your respect, especially since all your respect (and the lens) is focused on the subject of the photograph, and not on the background. Before you take the photo, take another look at the scene that is being captured: will the photo look better without the gilts of the tree/advertising agent who is trying to win your respect/darn car on background your photos? So. So, definitely, we will be the best!
2. You are a vikorist for this tedious job
Stop taking too many photos out of your sight! Sink to the ground (don’t be afraid to get lost) or rise higher! Marvel at a familiar scene under a new light and you will discover it in a new, perhaps unseen light.
3. You rarely shoot with the camera in a vertical position
You have to practice composing the frame both horizontally and vertically with the camera positioned. Now, when you decide to shoot the scene you're shooting with the camera held horizontally, simply rotate your camera 90 degrees and recompose the frame.
4. You haven’t seen the subject of the loan
9. Right up to the edges of the photo, the lighting changes
If the edges of your photos are dark, lower than the central part, speed up the peripheral brightening correction function (this function is available in all camera models and on almost all graphic editors to edit photographs) to correct the situation.
10. Don’t mess around with the lens hood
11. Your night photos are too dark
Ironically, night photographs with an inky black sky do not look too offensive. Try to notice if there are excess colors in the sky (for example, after the sun has set) or if the sky is illuminated with artificial light (for example, when the streets of Moscow are illuminated, etc.). Moreover, in the end, it is better to remove it at a sufficient distance from the place.
Editing your photos did not give the desired result, so...
1. You didn’t bother editing the “Rivni” tab
If your photos look flat and gray, turn the histograms around. Drag the white and black bars to the edges with histograms to give the image a more dynamic look.
2. You began to bury yourself in edits
Supernatural editing, of course, on the right is a relish, but also an apocalyptic color saturation, surrealistic HDR effects can give a photograph a splashy look. Follow the histogram as you edit the image as you edit: edits can enhance the details and moods of the photo, rather than pushing them beyond recognition.
3. During editing, you did not enhance the images enough
Do not attempt to edit, clone, or do any other editing that requires attention to detail without properly scaling the image. Of course, you can try to edit the photo no more, but the chance that you will end up losing all the manipulations with the desired result is small.
4. You increased the sharpness of the image enormously
Increase image sharpness for the rest of the editing step. When the time comes, increase the photo scale to 100% and carefully increase the sharpness. If you are using the UnsharpMask tool, do not overdo it with the important Radius and Amount functions, otherwise, instead of changing the sharpness, you will remove the distorted halos that glow around the object iv.
5. You went overboard with the strangling noise